Sunday, November 7
I was talking with a friend tonight about how I used to surf, and really enjoyed it. When I got home I couldn't resist and watched Step Into Liquid again. My friend Guy has noted that Step Into Liquid doesn't really have a point, that it's general thesis is just being stoked on surfing. But since I am stoked on surfing, that's good enough for me.
I was in California two weeks ago and almost brought my surfing gear with me. When I was packing I came up with a bunch of excuses to not bring it, you know: I won't have time, it'd be a pain to pack, the surf probably wouldn't be that good. When I got down there I regretted that decision - even though I was right and didn't really have time. Of course, I would have made time.
I like thinking back to this. It helps me reflect on my priorities. Are the things I do and care about now better for me then the things I used to do and care about? I don't know the answer to that question, but surfing is certainly one of the factors in the equation. My first reaction to thinking about surfing is to try to figure out a way to add it back in. I start thinking about bringing my gear to San Diego when I go down there for Christmas. I start thinking about driving over to the Olympic Pinnensula to be by the ocean and the waves (if you're not familiar with Seattle it may surprise you to know that we aren't really close to the Ocean, it's a solid two hour trip.)
But that's not the right way to deal with this. My life is already very full. I do lots of things, and wouldn't be able to add something like surfing without taking large chunks out. And that's the valuable exercise - thinking about those trade offs. Is surfing more valuable, or better for me, then those other things I'd have to cut out. This is something I struggle with all the time (not just with surfing, but with all the things I do.)
Reflection and prioritization is tough. I wish all my favorite activities had movies like Step Into Liquid that would remind me how great that activity is. It would make some of these comparisons easier.
It also helps that this film is gorgeous.
Comments:
The funny thing about surfing is that its enjoyed by so few but its influence is so wide ranging. I always thought it was funny that one of the most popular places to for kids to shop for clothes in Fresno was a surfshop. I should have taken notes -- PacSun went public and has made a killing in the red states...
It's a wonder if surfing wasn't so photogenic if it would have any kind of impact on cluture and fashion like it does today.
http://www.guywilliamwelch.com/blog
would be great photogenic
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It's a wonder if surfing wasn't so photogenic if it would have any kind of impact on cluture and fashion like it does today.
http://www.guywilliamwelch.com/blog
would be great photogenic